Surf Science. An introduction to waves for surfing | LIBROS NÁUTICOS | Surf, windsurf, kitesurf, kayak, remo | Librería Náutica cartamar. Libros Náuticos. Cartas Náuticas | Libreria nautica Cartamar. Libros nauticos. Cartas nauticas.

Contents:

Have you ever wondered where waves come from; what makes every one different; why some peel nicely and others just closa out; why, some days, waves come in sets of six, and others in sets of three; and what affect the behaviour of a surfing break? If you have, this book is for you



Index:

Preface
1. The paradox of impossible knowledge
2. Large-scale weather patterns
3. The formation of a depression
4. The growth of waves on the ocean
5. Propagation of free-travelling swell
6. Refraction
7. Wave-breaking
8. How waves move sediment
9. Surfing in the storm
10. Local winds on the coast
11. The temperature of the water
12. The tides
13. World wave climate
Further reading
Glossary-Index
Acknowledgements